What if the ocean could teach you more than just how to ride waves? Surfing, a sport that melds physical skill with cultural richness, continues to inspire and challenge those who dare to face its tides. Today, surfing is more than a pastime—it's an expression of identity, resilience, and connection to nature that resonates globally.
Antony Starr, known for his vivid appreciation of surf extremes, praises Big Wave Surfer for its gripping tales of conquering the planet's most colossal waves. Meanwhile, Wayne Lynch, a legendary surfer, admires Swell for revealing the solitary courage behind solo sailing and surfing adventures, highlighting the deeper spiritual quest within the sport. Stacy Peralta, a filmmaker and surfer, respects Surf Is Where You Find It for its profound reflections on surfing's evolving lifestyle and artistry.
These expert-curated books offer windows into different facets of surfing—from adrenaline-charged rides to cultural histories and female empowerment stories. While these provide proven frameworks, you might consider creating a personalized Surfing book tailored to your skill level, interests, and goals for a more focused journey.
Antony Starr, an actor known for his engaging presence, shared his awe after encountering Kai Lenny's vivid portrayal of big wave surfing, noting "Check out Kai Lenny's new book. Truly incredible and inspiring. Kudos brother, your playground is my worst nightmare." His reaction highlights the intense physical and mental challenges captured in the book. The collection of stories and breathtaking images changed how he views the sport’s extremes. Additionally, New York Magazine noted the thrilling accounts of conquering waves like Nazaré and Jaws, emphasizing the book’s blend of personal narrative and remarkable photography.
Kai Lenny, Don Vu, Beau Flemister, Ian Walsh, Shane Dorian(you?)·
About the Author
Hawaii-born Kai Lenny is one of the world’s most accomplished watermen pushing the sport of big wave surfing. He is the youngest person to be inducted into the Surfers’ Hall of Fame, winning countless awards throughout his career. Shane Dorian is a World Championship Tour veteran and WSL Big Wave Awards winner, and helped progress the sport of modern big wave surfing. Ian Walsh is a WSL Pe‘ahi Challenge winner and has been charging some of the biggest waves in the world since he was a teenager in Maui, Hawaii.
Big Wave Surfer offers a vivid look into the adrenaline-fueled world of extreme big wave surfing through the eyes of Kai Lenny and several elite surfers. Drawing from years of personal experience and collaboration with over 30 top riders, the book immerses you in gripping stories about conquering some of the planet’s most massive, dangerous waves like Nazaré in Portugal and Jaws in Maui. The stunning photography complements firsthand accounts, including Shane Dorian’s boundary-pushing rides at Pe‘ahi and Keala Kennelly’s breakthrough at Teahupoo. If you’re intrigued by the physical and mental demands of big wave surfing and want a front-row seat to its evolution, this book delivers that perspective.
The Los Angeles Times, a major US newspaper, highlights the book's stunning visual approach, noting how Jim Heimann captures not only the waves but also the culture and style of surfing. Their recommendation, "Visual historian Jim Heimann brings his keen eye to the waves, culture, sport, and style of surfing in this gorgeous book," reflects an appreciation for the book’s detailed imagery and cultural depth. This perspective underlines the book’s value beyond sport, offering a cultural snapshot that changed how many view surfing. Vogue also calls it "The undisputed bible of surf culture," reinforcing its status as a definitive resource for anyone intrigued by surfing’s lifestyle and influence.
Jim Heimann is a prominent editor and surf historian known for his extensive research and publications on surfing culture. With a career spanning several decades, he has contributed significantly to the documentation and celebration of surfing as both a sport and a lifestyle. His works are recognized for their depth and visual richness, making him a leading voice in surf literature.
2020·511 pages·Surfing, Sports History, Visual Arts, Cultural Studies, Lifestyle
When Jim Heimann first discovered the rich, visual narrative potential of surfing, he committed over three years to research that culminated in this extensive chronicle. You learn not just the sport's timeline from 1778 to today, but also how surfing evolved into a cultural and philosophical movement influencing fashion, film, and music. The book's five chapters guide you through eras with hundreds of images and essays from top surf journalists, offering a layered understanding of surfing’s global impact. If you’re drawn to the lifestyle behind the waves or want a deep dive into surfing’s societal footprints, this book offers both historical breadth and detailed cultural insights.
This custom AI book on surfing techniques and culture is created based on your experience level, goals, and the specific aspects of surfing you want to develop. You share your background and which skills or cultural elements interest you most, and the book is crafted to focus precisely on those. This personalized approach makes sense because surfing isn’t one-size-fits-all—your environment, style, and ambitions shape what you need to know. By tailoring the content, this book helps you progress efficiently and meaningfully in your surfing journey.
TailoredRead AI creates personalized nonfiction books that adapt to your unique background, goals, and interests. Instead of reading generic content, you get a custom book written specifically for your profession, experience level, and learning objectives. Whether you're a beginner looking for fundamentals or an expert seeking advanced insights, TailoredRead crafts a book that speaks directly to you. Learn more.
This personalized surfing book provides a tailored framework that focuses on essential surfing techniques, cultural insights, and practical strategies aligned with your specific skill level and goals. It emphasizes mastering wave reading, paddle positioning, and maneuver execution while integrating surfing’s rich cultural dimensions. By cutting through generic advice, it fits your unique surfing context, whether you're refining basics or advancing to complex maneuvers. The tailored approach extends to safety protocols, equipment selection, and local surf etiquette, ensuring a comprehensive understanding customized to your environment and ambitions. This book bridges technical skill development with cultural appreciation, offering a cohesive path to elevate your surfing experience efficiently.
The Los Angeles Times, a respected US newspaper known for cultural insight, highlights this book as "a stunningly gorgeous collection..." Their appreciation speaks to the compelling visual and narrative quality that Carolina Amell brings to women's surfing stories. This recommendation came from their appreciation of how the book captures surfing’s spirit beyond the waves, reflecting diverse female experiences. Similarly, Publisher's Weekly praises its photography and appeal to admirers of surfing and underwater life, reinforcing how this work connects art and sport with personal stories.
Carolina Amell, a graphic designer with a deep engagement in contemporary visual culture, crafted this book to spotlight the powerful presence of women in surfing. You gain an intimate look at thirty diverse female surfers from around the world, each sharing personal stories and philosophies that challenge traditional perceptions of the sport. The book offers vivid photography paired with reflections on resilience, creativity, and empowerment, such as Lindsay Steinriede’s journey inspired by personal loss and Valerie Duprat’s board-shaping craft. If you want to explore surfing beyond technique and competition—into culture, identity, and empowerment—this book enriches your understanding with compelling voices and stunning visuals.
Wayne Lynch, a legendary surfer, knows the tides and trials of ocean life better than most. His recommendation of this book comes from a place of deep respect for Liz Clark’s choice to leave the shore's safety behind and embrace the unpredictable world of solo sailing and surfing. He describes her spirit, courage, and humility as rare, highlighting how she risks everything to follow her heart’s call. This book gave him a fresh perspective on surfing as more than just a sport but a profound, solitary journey. Following him, Kirkus Reviews paints a vivid picture of Clark’s voyage, emphasizing how her story weaves together adventure, environmental passion, and personal growth, enriching the surfing narrative beyond waves alone.
“Liz has excelled as a surfer, sailor, and explorer, but these descriptions do not truly impart the spirit, courage and humility of her life. She is one of those rare people who has chosen to journey far from the comfort and security of the shore, to risk all and follow her heart’s calling.”
When Liz Clark was nine, her family spent seven months sailing down Mexico’s Pacific coast. After returning to land life in San Diego, she dreamed of seeing the world by sailboat one day. While earning her BA in Environmental Studies from UC Santa Barbara, surfing also became a fanatical passion. After college, she turned her voyaging dream into reality, sailing south from Southern California through Central America and the Pacific Islands as captain of her own forty foot sailboat, Swell. For more than a decade, she has kept her nomadic voyaging lifestyle going through writing, blogging, photography, representing conscious brands, and earning recognition as a surf adventurer, environmental activist, and captain. She hopes to inspire people to live their passions and reconnect with nature and our inherent oneness. She was featured in the film Dear and Yonder (2009), and nominated for National Geographic Adventurer of the Year in 2015.
What if everything you knew about surfing adventures was wrong? Liz Clark challenges the traditional idea that surfing is mostly about competition or coastal breaks, and instead invites you into a world where sailing and surfing blend into a quest for deeper connection and self-awareness. You explore not just waves but the unpredictable challenges of solo voyaging aboard a 40-foot sailboat, learning how to navigate harsh seas, mechanical failures, and isolation. The book offers vivid stories from chapters detailing storms at sea and encounters with remote island cultures, making it ideal for anyone drawn to surfing as a lifestyle or spiritual journey rather than just a sport.
Stacy Peralta, a renowned surfer, skateboarder, and filmmaker, admires Gerry Lopez as a multifaceted pioneer who mastered every form of surfing with grace. He recalls Lopez's remarkable journey through various surfing styles and highlights his profound influence: "Gerry Lopez is essentially a surfing samurai; a tube-riding and high-performance surfing pioneer, an early adopter of wind surfing, kite surfing, tow surfing, SUP surfing, river surfing and now foil surfing. He’s done it all and he’s done it all so beautifully." This perspective reveals how Lopez's story reshaped Peralta’s understanding of surfing’s possibilities. Adding to this, Rob Machado, a professional surfing icon, reflects on Lopez’s legendary status, emphasizing his calm mastery on Pipeline and pioneering spirit in Indonesian surf spots, underscoring the book’s celebration of surfing’s rich history and artistry.
“Gerry Lopez is essentially a surfing samurai; a tube-riding and high-performance surfing pioneer, an early adopter of wind surfing, kite surfing, tow surfing, SUP surfing, river surfing and now foil surfing. He’s done it all and he’s done it all so beautifully.”
Gerry Lopez, a legendary surfer, redefined tube riding on the North Shore of O’ahu and pioneered surf spots in Indonesia. Now based in Oregon, he continues to surf, write, and shape.
2022·416 pages·Surfing, Sports, Extreme Sports, Wave Riding, Surf History
Unlike most surfing books that focus mainly on technique or competition, this one dives into the rich personal history and culture of surfing through Gerry Lopez's eyes. Drawing from decades of experience pioneering iconic waves like Pipeline and Indonesian breaks, Lopez shares vivid stories about the evolution of surfing and the influential figures behind it. You’ll gain insights into the soul of surfing beyond the waves—how the community, lifestyle, and adventure shape the sport. This book suits anyone passionate about surfing’s heritage or curious about its deeper meaning, rather than purely how to ride a board.
This personalized AI book about surf training is created based on your current surfing background, skill level, and specific areas you want to improve. By sharing your goals and preferred focus areas, this AI-crafted guide provides daily surf actions tailored just for you. Surfing demands both physical technique and ocean awareness, so having a custom plan makes practicing more efficient and aligned with what you personally need to develop. This way, you get a book that feels like a coaching partner designed around your unique surfing journey.
TailoredRead AI creates personalized nonfiction books that adapt to your unique background, goals, and interests. Instead of reading generic content, you get a custom book written specifically for your profession, experience level, and learning objectives. Whether you're a beginner looking for fundamentals or an expert seeking advanced insights, TailoredRead crafts a book that speaks directly to you. Learn more.
This book provides a personalized framework that guides you through a step-by-step daily surf training regimen tailored to your specific skill level, background, and goals. It focuses on targeted surf techniques, physical conditioning, and ocean awareness, ensuring your practice aligns precisely with your unique context. By cutting through generic advice, it offers a tailored approach that emphasizes incremental progress through daily, actionable surf exercises and mindset strategies. The book addresses essential elements ranging from paddling efficiency to wave selection and recovery, creating an integrated path toward surf mastery that adapts to your individual development plan and helps optimize your learning curve.
Geoff Dyer, author of The Ongoing Moment, brings a literary eye to this memoir, calling it "A hefty masterpiece." His appreciation reflects a deep understanding of narrative craft applied to the surfing world. Dyer's endorsement matters because he recognizes how Finnegan melds personal adventure with cultural insight, making the book resonate beyond surfers alone. The New York Times Book Review also praises the work as an "Extraordinary" portrayal of surfing’s full dimensions, highlighting Finnegan’s near-death experiences as gripping, electrifying moments. This book helped them see surfing not just as a sport but as a life-defining, intellectual pursuit.
William Finnegan is the author of Cold New World, A Complicated War, Dateline Soweto, and Crossing the Line. He has twice been a National Magazine Award finalist and has won numerous journalism awards, including two Overseas Press Club awards since 2009. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life received the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography. A staff writer at The New Yorker since 1987, he lives in Manhattan.
When William Finnegan first realized how deeply surfing shaped his life, he crafted this memoir that blends personal history with vivid wave-riding experience. You get more than a travelogue; this book teaches you the nuances of surfing culture, the technical mastery required, and the social dynamics of surfing communities worldwide. For instance, his chapters on navigating challenging waves off Hawaii and Indonesia offer sharp insights into both physical skill and mental endurance. If you're drawn to surfing's complexity beyond the sport itself—its cultural and emotional layers—this book will resonate with you.
2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography
Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List
Indoek curates a singular perspective on surfing culture through their surf-centric blog, bringing together stories and images that celebrate the independent spirit of wave riders. Their expertise in surf lifestyles fuels this collection, which reveals how surfers live creatively on and off the shore. This background makes the book a valuable glimpse into the personal spaces and cultural expressions that define surfing beyond just the sport.
Indoek is a surf-centric blog celebrating a unique and independent flavor of wave-riding culture. A collective that creates and curates content around the characters, stories, art, organizations, music, and brands that reflect the shared passions and pursuits of their diverse community.
Drawing from the surf-centric community cultivated by Indoek, this book explores surfing beyond the waves, focusing on the unique homes and lifestyles of surfers across diverse coasts. You'll discover how surfers' creativity manifests not just in riding waves but in their living spaces—from urban apartments to secluded cabins. Through vivid photographs, personal anecdotes, and intimate portraits, the book offers insights into the culture and personalities shaping surf life. If you want to understand the lifestyle and artistic expression that accompanies surfing, this compilation opens a window into that world, though it’s less about technique and more about culture and environment.
Lauren L. Hill is a professional surfer and writer with degrees in Environmental and Social Science, whose decade of exploring surf cultures worldwide through an eco-feminist lens informs this book. Her background as a senior writer for Surfing World Magazine and appearances in multiple award-winning documentaries enrich her storytelling. She Surf: The Rise of Female Surfing is a reflection of her commitment to community building and environmental awareness through the lens of female surfers' experiences.
Lauren L. Hill is a professional surfer and writer who has spent the past decade exploring new waves and documenting burgeoning surf cultures around the world through an eco-feminist lens. Lauren has degrees in Environmental and Social Science from Stetson University. She was a senior writer for Surfing World Magazine and has appeared in award-winning documentary films including The Church of the Open Sky, Bella Vita, Beyond the Surface, and Transparentsea Voyage, amongst others. Lauren hosts The Waterpeople Podcast and her work continues to revolve around the power of storytelling to build community and protect our planet.
She Surf: The Rise of Female Surfing offers a vivid journey into the world of women who have shaped and continue to influence surfing culture globally. Lauren L. Hill, a professional surfer and eco-feminist writer, draws on her extensive experience and travels to highlight stories often overlooked, from Polynesian surfing princesses to modern trailblazers. You’ll gain insights into the cultural and environmental connections these women foster with the sea, alongside striking imagery and intimate interviews that bring these narratives to life. This book suits anyone interested in the social dynamics of surfing and the evolving role of women in this traditionally male-dominated sport.
Kassia Meador, a former professional longboarder and founder of Kassia+Surf, deeply connects with this book’s celebration of female surfers. After years navigating her own surfing journey, Kassia finds these stories resonate profoundly, describing the women featured as her "sea sisters." She shares, "The women in this book are my sea sisters and I believe that by sharing these remarkable stories, we inspire other women to make wiser and more empowered choices in their own lives." This collection expanded her view of surfing’s power, highlighting how the ocean teaches resilience and humility—lessons that ripple far beyond the waves.
“The women in this book are my sea sisters and I believe that by sharing these remarkable stories, we inspire other women to make wiser and more empowered choices in their own lives. They learned from the ocean, from pushing themselves, trusting themselves, and dancing with this element. Water is the gateway to emotions and feelings. It offers the opportunity to be fully broken open, to be totally annihilated, to be brought to our knees in humility. These women and I have been defined, and are continually redefined, by surfing. What we learn each time we go into the water, we bring with us back to land and put that into the world. It’s the ebb and flow of the tide, the giving and receiving and the giving again.”
Lara Einzig is a stylist, creative consultant, author, and surfer. After spending twelve years in London working in fashion marketing for Topshop and as fashion director for Goop, she then moved to Los Angeles where she founded a creative direction consultancy. Lara is on a mission to bring equality to the water and to inspire women around the world to live a life of purpose. Lara lives with her husband and three boys in Venice, California.
2022·272 pages·Surfing, Women in Sports, Ocean Conservation, Personal Growth, Athlete Profiles
When Lara Einzig discovered the transformative power of surfing among women worldwide, she crafted a vivid exploration of their stories and spirits. This book profiles over two dozen female surfers—from record breakers like Maya Gabeira to activists like Risa Mara Machuca—revealing how surfing fosters resilience, healing, and empowerment. You'll gain insight into how connection with the ocean becomes a source of strength not only in the water but also in life, with candid interviews and immersive photography illustrating this sisterhood. If you're drawn to stories about personal growth through sport or want to understand the deeper cultural and emotional currents of surfing, this book offers a rich, authentic perspective.
Jeff Divine, born in 1950, began photographing the surfing world as a teenager in 1966 and later served as photo editor for Surfer magazine and Surfer’s Journal for 35 years. His deep immersion in surf culture over five decades informs this collection, which draws from an extensive personal archive to portray the vibrant, precommercialized surfing scene of the 1970s. Divine’s unique perspective and long-standing contribution to surf media culminate in a book that offers readers a compelling visual journey through a pivotal era in surfing history.
Tom Adler, Evan Backes, Jeff Divine, William Finnegan(you?)·
About the Author
Jeff Divine, born in 1950, started photographing the surfing world in 1966. He held jobs as photo editor for 35 years with Surfer magazine and Surfer’s Journal. His works have been displayed worldwide in museums and galleries, as well as in books, magazines, and media. In 2019, he was inducted into the Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame for his contribution to surf culture in a career lasting 50 years.
Unlike most surfing books that focus on technique or travel, this one offers a vivid visual immersion into 1970s surf culture through Jeff Divine's extensive photographic archive. Divine, with over three decades as photo editor at Surfer magazine, captures the era's raw spirit—from handcrafted boards adorned with psychedelic designs to the close-knit community's unique slang and lifestyle. You gain insight into a precommercialized surfing world shaped by hippie influences, as seen in vibrant images from iconic Californian and Hawaiian coastlines. This book suits those fascinated by surf history, culture, and photography rather than instructional guides, providing a nostalgic yet informative glimpse into a formative period for the sport.
Inducted into Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame
The collection of these 10 books reveals surfing as a multifaceted world—one that embraces heart-stopping big waves, rich cultural narratives, and inspiring tales of female surfers breaking boundaries. Each book brings a unique lens, whether through stunning photography, deeply personal memoirs, or explorations of surfing’s lifestyle and philosophy.
If you’re just starting out, Surfing and Surf Is Where You Find It offer cultural foundations and lifestyle insights to ground you. For those chasing adrenaline and mastery, Big Wave Surfer and Barbarian Days provide gripping adventures and technique. Meanwhile, Surf Like a Girl and Women Making Waves uplift powerful female voices and empowerment.
Once you’ve absorbed these expert insights, create a personalized Surfing book to bridge general principles with your unique situation. Whether you seek big wave thrills, cultural depth, or personal growth, your tailored guide can sharpen your path through the waves.
Frequently Asked Questions
I'm overwhelmed by choice – which book should I start with?
Starting with Surfing by Jim Heimann gives you a broad cultural and historical overview, making it a great foundation before diving into more specialized or personal tales.
Are these books too advanced for someone new to surfing?
Not at all. Many books, like Surf Is Where You Find It, explore lifestyle and culture accessible to beginners, while others inspire growth as you advance.
What's the best order to read these books?
Begin with cultural and broad perspective books, then explore memoirs and specialized topics like big wave surfing or women's stories to deepen your understanding.
Should I start with the newest book or a classic?
Both have value. Newer books offer fresh perspectives, while classics like Barbarian Days provide timeless insights into surfing's soul.
Do these books assume I already have experience in surfing?
They vary. Some, like Big Wave Surfer, dive into advanced surfing, while others focus on culture and stories that anyone interested can enjoy.
Can I get personalized surfing guidance instead of reading all these?
Yes! While these expert books offer rich insights, a personalized Surfing book tailored to your skills and goals complements them perfectly by focusing on what matters most to you.
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